Husband-and-wife restaurateurs Paris Smeraldo and Meg Lipke, owners of Northeast Kingdom in the up-and-coming Bushwick neighborhood of Brooklyn, are bringing new meaning to the terms farm-to-table and nose-tail. The restaurant is shifting to buying whole animals for Chef Kevin Adey to butcher himself, and it will then use every single part in a changing daily menu. Compared with the convention of buying meat piecemeal, they expect their profit margin to increase about 20 percent.
Itâ€™s not just about revenue, though, explains Smeraldo. â€œWe could make more money doing it a different way,â€ he says. â€œItâ€™s a much larger commitment. This is what good foodâ€™s aboutâ€”greater connection to understanding where our food comes from and having relationships with farmers.â€ And, as you might expect in these corners of Brooklyn, itâ€™s not just for meat: Smeraldo and Lipke forage for their own micro-vegetables when theyâ€™re in season around their second home in Hudson, N.Y.